Juuhachiban

At 十八番, a Chinese restaurant in Kojima, Taito City, the hot-and-sour soup noodles (酸辣湯麺) are a favourite order. Tomato, silken tofu, green pepper and ribbons of egg bring colour to the bowl. A measured tang and heat meet the savoury depth of the broth, while the varied textures and generous portion make for a satisfying bowl. Noodle dishes are often paired with butameshi, rice topped with spicy chopped char siu and long onion, or a half portion of fried rice.

There is plenty of choice among the noodles, from vegetable-rich tanmen and fragrant chive noodles to rich black sesame tantanmen. Rice dishes include fried rice with substantial cubes of char siu, a lighter crab-and-lettuce fried rice, and a mapo rice bowl topped with a sweet-and-savoury sauce.

For a smaller dish, there are gyoza filled with vegetables and meat shumai with shrimp. They also make fitting accompaniments to beer or a highball. The first floor is mostly counter seating, making it easy to dine alone; upstairs, tables can accommodate groups. Payment is cash only, so it is worth having cash on hand before you arrive.